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NigelG

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  1. The Big Differences. One of the first things a soon-to-be American Expat moving to Thailand needs to ask is, where should he live? Many chose the area south of Bangkok, which usually has beaches and lots of nightlife and plenty of other expats. For this report, however, I will consider the differences of living in the Big City v. the Big Village; Bangkok v. Chiang Mai. My first Thai home was a one bedroom condo apartment in the Lad Phrao district of Bangkok, but later my wife and I sold the condo to move into our house in Chiang Mai. I am in a position to be able to compare life for an American expat in both places. Bangkok (BKK) has a lot to offer. Several expats in BKK ask me why in the world I would want to live in the “fringes” of what’s happening up in the North. Chiang Mai (CNX) may be the second largest city in Thailand (there is actually a little debate on this, since the CNX counts the population of the suburbs to get the total, and not all other cities do this. CNX may be the fourth largest or the third largest city in the country), but the feeling in CNX is that it is actually the “Biggest Village in Thailand”, since the amount of geography occupied by the city proper is actually quite small in comparison to other Thai cities. On the positive side for BKK, the City is the Center of the Nation. It is also more worldly than CNX, with large diverse groups of peoples from all over the world. You can easily find Russians, Chinese, Brits, Peruvians, Norwegians, and any other possible group imaginable in BKK, and they bring with them restaurants and shops catering to that group. You will discover new places to buy things and eat everyday living in BKK. Also because it is the Center for Thailand, you will easily find specialty shops for everything possible. So if you have an unusual hobby or require unusual supplies for your job, you can always find them somewhere in BKK. It is also easier and cheaper to travel outside of Thailand from BKK. You can hop on the skytrain right into Suvarnabhumi International Airport, and easily take a flight to anywhere in the world. It is cheaper to fly from BKK to Europe than to America, so holidays in that part of the world are easy to take. Some of the costs to fly to other parts of Asia from BKK are incredibly cheap with so many competing airlines. If you can catch the airline promotional sales, it is possible to go to Hong Kong, Bali, Viet Nam and many adventurous places for under a hundred dollars. Domestic flights go out of Subarnabhumi (pronounced, believe it or not, as Swan-a-poom, or shortened to Swan-a-poo) and the old airport, Don Muang Airport. There are a very large number of small airlines (many more than in the US) and they are very competitive in price and service. You can fly all over Thailand if you plan well for around fifty dollars. BKK night skylineBKK skylineTransportation within BKK is also plentiful and cheap. To get around, you have the choice of the Sky Train, the Underground Train, AC Buses, non-AC Buses, air conditioned metered taxis, tuk-tuks, Samlor (cycle rickshaws), motorcycle taxis, and limousines or walking. You can get across BKK (about the size of Los Angeles) for as low of $2 or $3, In fact, I would say it is NOT a good idea to have your own transportation (car of motorcycle) in BKK, as it can lead to an early death. Nightlife in BKK is amazing (in big contrast to CNX). There is entertainment for every taste, and it is much easier for a guy and girl (or any other combination) in BKK to meet each other and become a couple (temporary or permanent). All services, like dental or medical or acupuncture or travel agencies or accountants or lawyers or anything else are more plentiful in BKK than anywhere else in Thailand. Think of the most unique service possible, and for sure BKK has it. If you love a City with huge shopping malls, enormous weekend markets, shows, theater, and world-class cinemas, and much more, then BKK fits the bill. CNX still has some of these things, but on a smaller-scale. But CNX also has two incredible night markets, Muay Thai kickboxing events, a couple of good shopping malls, many lovely cafes and restaurants, and very decent art galleries with lots of relaxed coffee houses. On the negative side, BKK also has noise. Lots of it. Early in the morning and late at night. Traffic is bad always, and there are few restrictions on noise pollution, air pollution and the occasional flood. Every morning in my BKK condo I was wakened by the vegetable seller on the street (and Iwas 8 floors up) screaming in his electric megaphone about the specials on his cart (in Thai language, of course). BKK is total chaos, but many young people don’t mind the chaos, and in fact welcomes it. In my own personal unscientific poll of my BKK friends and acquaintances, there is much more likelihood of serious illness like cancer in BKK than in other places, and I think air pollution plays a major role in that. Living in BKK is also more expensive than living in CNX. Food in the markets and restaurants seem to be about 25% more in BKK, and I believe it is because the area around CNX is farm country, loaded with small family farms that keep prices down. Rental rate for apartments in BKK are also higher than in CNX. In BKK, you will get smaller units and pay 25% more than in CNX or more. The same ratio applies to purchasing a house or condo as well. In BKK, there are city parks, but they are crowded and there is rubbish everywhere. When some Thai people are finished eating some fast food in the park, their wrappers and plastic spoons are tossed, and it shows. In CNX, you drive 10 minutes outside of the city, and you could be on a jungle covered hilltop with a great view and it is pristine in a natural way In Chiang Mai, life is much slower than in BKK. It is laid back in CNX, but the yang to that ying is that it is also more difficult in CNX to find motivated, ambitious people full of energy to get things done. The social life in CNX is limited, with few entertainment venues offered. The Adult Nightlife is almost non-existent compared to the Big City (that could be a positive or a negative, depending on your point of view). However, Chiang Mai has great restaurants of almost any flavor, but for sure not as many as in BKK. Chiang Mai is a “20 minute city”, meaning you can get anywhere in town in 20 minutes or less. No massive traffic jams that leave you stuck in one place for an hour or so, which is fairly commonplace in BKK, but down in the tourist area of central CNX, it can still get congested with traffic. Chiang Mai is a university town, so there are loads of students all over town. To me, it is very positive to live in a town loaded with attractive young college girls. There is less diversity in the population in CNX. Most everyone is Thai, with the small ribbon of farang (Western foreigners) mixed in all over the City. Not so many mixes of people from the far corners of the Earth as in BKK. Chiang Mai, especially down in the central part of the city, is quite “touristy”, it is easier to get out into the country-side to experience the “real Thailand”. After an hour of driving out of CNX, you can find yourself up in the mountains between remote villages with amazing hill tribe cultures and panoramic views. You can’t do that very easily in BKK. While CNX has a nice little international airport, it is difficult to travel to most places outside of the country without going through BKK and changing planes. It will take a bit longer and cost a bit more to travel almost anywhere by air. If you need to find a job, BKK is much better than CNX in every industry, including teaching. In BKK, you will be paid more, and there are many more opportunities. Weather-wise, Chiang Mai is more pleasant during more of the year. From October through February, Chiang Mai can actually be cool and often AC is not needed. In BKK, it is hot all year long, and summers in BKK can become quite sticky, much more so than in CNX. Hands down, in Chiang Mai the pace of life is slower, relaxed, the people are even friendlier and nothing seems too urgent here. Bangkok, on the other hand, is like every capital city in the world that is frenetic, crazy, crowded and rushed. Making the decision between Bangkok or Chiang Mai depends a lot on a person’s character, and what they are looking for in life. For me, Chiang Mai fits the bill, but I can understand why others may choose Bangkok.
  2. How long is a piece of string? Cable tv depends on which package you choose; ditto with ISP. Electricity depends on how much you use the airconditioning, more than anything else (summer bills can be 3-4 times higher than winter bills). Playschools again will depend on which one you choose (small local vs big "international") but you're probably looking at fees of approx $600+ for each kid. Domestic helpers have a minimum wage of approx $4k per month. Medical and insurance costs ~ again, varies so much that there is no such thing as a "rough cost". You'd honestly be best off either Googling for information from HK govt websites or even doing a search on archived threads here on HKxp cos this ground has been covered before (altho the numbers cited in past threads will probably be way out of whack by now).
  3. The hill is a killer to those carrying beer guts.
  4. Street Food in Bangkok cannot be matched by any other place in the World. It is varied, creative and delicious, and Americans coming to Thailand must experience having lunch and dinner in a crowded space wedged between market sellers on Bangkok’s sidewalks. Americans are not used to Street Food, and they have some apprehension in experiencing street-side dining. Every restaurant in the US must regularly prove to authorities that their establishment has almost no chance of sanitary problems, and Americans can eat almost anywhere in their home country assured that the dinner house has all the precautions necessary to protect their health. When traveling to Third World environments, Americans are naturally nervous eating without the controlling safety net. Stories abound of tourists to Mexico returning home with massive stomach problems, and there are regular warnings to be extremely careful when venturing outside the country In regards to Bangkok Street Food, the fears are pretty much unfounded. True, the condition of many street kitchens and their food storage practices would give a food inspector in the US a coronary, but speaking from personal experience and the experience of many old timer expats eagerly eating their way around the City for decades, it is extremely rare to hear about anyone getting ill from eating Street Food. A quick inspection and a drop or two of common sense can keep one safe. You can see the food actually being prepared, and the ingredients are usually fresh from local markets. Make sure it is relatively clean (many Thais are over the top in making a space super clean), and don’t drink the water unless it comes directly from a bottle (or better yet, stick to a bottle of beer — don’t add ice). Having plenty of Thais eating in the street stand helps verify the safety. As you get to know Thai people on a personal level, you quickly realize that in Thailand, cooking at home – a major part of domestic life in western countries – is seen as more of a hobby than anything else. This comes directly from the deeply ingrained love affair that Thai culture has with street food – cheap, fast, delicious, and plentiful. Why cook at home when there’s so much available just outside? Thai Street Food is fresh, usually picked from the fields just one day before eating. Thai food is loaded with fresh spices and flavors and can be a wonderful experience for the palate. There are some that say that the amazing variety of ingredients and touches of flair that make up Thai food are simply a hodgepodge of all the best traditions and techniques from Burma, Laos, China, India and Cambodia, among others, and mixed together to come up with Thai cuisine. But Thai food has emerged as a point of national pride for almost every Thai. The real secret about Thai dining: the best food in Thailand is served by street vendors and at basic mom-and-pop restaurants, often temporarily built on a Bangkok sidewalk. Many of the best places have folding camp tables and cheap plastic patio chairs, and the only decoration is a wall calendar with the King’s picture (and it is probably a few years old). Thai habits also lend themselves to street meals. Since Thais normally eat many small meals rather than three squares and traditionally prefer to meet outside the house, street food suits them. Many Thai dishes can be cooked relatively quickly, and Thais are able to take a quick break for a bowl of Tom Yum or a freshly sautéed Pad Thai. A hearty dinner from a good Bangkok Street Food vendor should never exceed the equivalent of US $2. In the street right next to the condo building in Bangkok my wife and I once lived in, there was a wonderful noodle place right outside the front door. It became a place where the condo building’s residents met and got to know one another. It became a very nice community center for the building. It was the best place to get to know your neighbor. And the extra bonus was that the noodles were absolutely wonderful. It is wise to learn some of the common Thai dishes that you can recite to the cook (who also often takes the orders, cleans the tables, washes the plates and sweeps the floor — or pavement). Usually there is no one working the street food shops that can speak English, and there is little chance of finding a menu or menu board in anything but Thai language. This is all part of the adventure of it all. After a hearty noodle dinner, the next step is to find another street vendor specializing in Thai deserts. There are plenty and lots of variety, and I suggest sampling everything. My favorite treats after dinner are the Thai waffles. There are lots of varieties, but I like the fat little waffles that are stuffed with fruit, like bananas, mangoes or strawberry. Bangkok’s street food rated among best in Asia Bangkok has been chosen as one of Asia’s 10 greatest street food cities with pad see ew fried noodles, som tam papaya salad, and moo ping grilled pork among the most popular street food items. The other nine Asian cities named by CNNGo.com as the greatest street food cities are Penang in Malaysia, Taipei, Fukuoka in Japan, Hanoi, Singapore, Seoul, Xi’an in China, Manila, and Phnom Penh. None was ranked as No1. “Bangkok is a street food heavyweight; one can eat well in the city without ever setting foot inside a restaurant,” Lina Goldberg wrote in the article posted on the website on Friday. “Bangkok street food culture is built around the Thai habit of eating many small meals throughout the day.” The author selected 10 street food items as the most recommended in Bangkok. They are pad see ew, som tam, moo ping, guay teow rua boat noodles, khao pad pu fried rice with crab, moo dad diew air-dried pork, kanom jeen rice noodle, cha yen thai-style milked tea, khao niew ma muang mango with sweetened sticky rice, and khanom krok coconut pudding.
  5. That's a bad story. The trouble, I think, is you're buying into Western corporate ways. My hope is that Thai ways are somewhat more honourable. Japanese insurers, of course, tend toward a more honorable reputation - and I buy Japanese where I can - but I've not located that as relevant with health insurance. BTW, 90 Days is 3 months more of that money earning for that company. You'll be surprised how many Western companies make their money through treasury operations, rather than the actual sale - travel agency/tour operation being the classic example, where your money can be used for up to a year, before payment is even required for the service you bought, then they stall on paying for another 3 months!
  6. So from what I am reading here there seems not to be very good insurance in BKK and I am guess they do not work with American Insurance Companies and you are on your own dealing with your own American Insurance!!
  7. Bupa has a platinum plan as well. it covers until 1, 2 or 5 million baht depends which package you choose
  8. BUPA paid my bill after a motorcycle accident-50,000 THB, I am on a group policy from my job so it covers everything
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